These vintage knitting tips have been compiled through a combination of research and my own trial and error! Click on the links below to take you to the relevant section …

1. General Vintage Knitting Pattern info
2. Vintage Knitting Pattern Yarn
3. Tension/Gauge
4. Sizes
5. Needle conversion chart
6. Vintage yarn list

GENERAL VINTAGE KNITTING PATTERN INFORMATION

Knitting from vintage knitting patterns is not for the faint-hearted, and not generally recommended for beginners (unless you’ve got someone experienced on-hand to help you). The garments take time and patience, as they’re mostly knitted using a fine-ply wool and fine needles. Many UK vintage knitting patterns, particularly from the ’40s, are highly intricate and demanding … they were designed during a time when clothing (and even wool) was scarce and rationed, and knitters wanted to create their own slice of high fashion and that included lots of shaping and detail. On top of that, the patterns are also frequently inadequate and faulty, so you have to read around the instructions and draw on your own experience.

Things have changed in the 50 or so years since most of these knitting patterns were published, mainly yarns and body sizes. I’d like to think the body size issue is down to more disciplined under-garments in the last century, but sadly I think we’re just bigger (lucky you if you don’t need to adapt them). Instructions in these vintage knitting patterns are often given in one size which would roughly translate to our size 10 (32 - 36″ being the most common bust size). Unless you are capable of adapting knitting patterns yourself (or have handy access to a knitwear designer) I’d recommend double checking the sizeing on the patterns before you start. Having said that, I’ve managed to get some successful results by upping the needle size by a grade or two, or using slightly heavier wool, but be careful you don’t compromise too much on the fineness of the finished fabric

Tension squares are the order of the day when it comes to knitting up old patterns - if you’ve never bothered before, now’s the time to start.

VINTAGE KNITTING PATTERN YARN

The old 2- and 3-ply wool was heavier than today’s: what was then a 2-ply will be equivalent of today’s 3, the 3 of a 4, and the 4 of a DK (note: the needle size should be adjusted to keep the tension the same). This makes a garment larger, but if you use too thick a yarn, you lose that detailed, fine-textured look that is typical of the period - the garment comes out the right size but with a slightly heavier texture.

Modern 2-ply or 3-ply yarns can still be found but the colourways are so limited - they’re used mainly for baby patterns. If you find one you like, you can use it with the needle size given in the patterns, but remember to check your tension first. Per the guidelines in the previous paragraph, if a pattern tells you to use 2-ply it may be easier to get the right tension using a 3-ply.

If you’re still not sure where to start sourcing wool for your vintage pattern, an excellent source in the UK is Jamieson & Smith, a Shetland Wool providers located in Scotland. Set up in the 1930s, they still provide superb quality wool, including 2-ply jumper weight which knits as vintage 4-ply, and a 2-ply lace which knits as vintage 3-ply, all in 25g balls.  Great shades, and you can order online.

Texere Yarns also offer an undyed 2-ply in Pure New Wool or Merino Lambswool by the 100g or 400g cone. Very reasonable if you fancy experimenting with dyeing and again, available to order online.

Bear in mind that extra wool is often required today. For the patterns from the 20s to the 40s it is advisable to increase the yarn recommended in the pattern by half as much again. For the patterns from the 50s to today the quantities stated in the patterns should suffice. The pattern quantities will probably be in ounces and yarn is often sold in twenty-five, fifty or hundred gram balls.

One ounce is the equivalent of 28.35 grams.

TENSION

The patterns will always give you tension square instructions, generally knitted over the main stitch used in the garment. However, general tension rules can be tested out  below:

1. Knit a square approx 5×5in (12.5×12.5cm) in stocking stitch

2. Place the square on a flat surface without stretching and using a metal tape or rigid rule, mark off with pins 4in (10cm) both across and down the fabric

3. Count the number of stitches and rows between the pins and compare with the number specified in the pattern.

4. If the number of stitches and rows is greater than specified, the knitting is too tight and you should knit and measure a square on needles a size larger

5. If the number of stitches and rows is fewer than specified, the knitting is too loose and you should knit and measure a square on needles a size smaller.

6. If the number of stitches is correct but the number of rows is still incorrect, proceed with the pattern. Check the length as the fabric develops and knit more or fewer rows in order to achieve the size required.

SIZES

Many fashionable garments, especially from the 30s and 40s are generally short in the waist. This doesn’t suit me at all - I have a long waist and can definitely pinch an inch (or two) which I’d rather not show off to the world thank you. I tend to increase the depth of the (often ribbed) welt, or repeat the main pattern once, twice or more often immediately above the welt or before the armhole is worked. This is something you can judge roughly as you go along - you’ll know when you get to the armhole whether or not you’ve come up too short or long.

Tension/gauge are obviously the main components in working out the correct size. You can also play around with needle sizes as suggested above.

The talented knitwear author, designer and vintage collector Kristen Rengren has produced a fantastically useful guide to vintage knitting.  Includes sections on altering vintage patterns to fit, what size to fit and ease in vintage patterns, and a crash course in fashion history.  Print it, read it, refer to it again and again

NEEDLE CONVERSION CHART

Vintage patterns use imperial needle sizes, which you can still pick up second-hand. If you only have new metric needles, here’s a useful needle conversion chart:

VINTAGE YARN LIST

I’m in the process of compiling a UK vintage yarn chart noting the content, weight, yardage and recommended needles. It’s a labour of love so it may take some time … if you’ve got any useful information about vintage yarns, please let me know! Meantime, an excellent and comprehensive list for US yarns (and some UK) can be found here.

You might see a potted history about some of the pattern and yarn manufacturers if you choose to view the patterns ‘by brand’ - another quest and many gaps need filling in so again, if you have any information you’d be willing to share, please contact me!